3. Kavery , Nemam and the great flood of Irawatheeswaram

 

Kaveri and the great flood of Irawatheeswaram

“That you were present at the birth of time when Shiva as a golden peacock roamed the ocean of the void”      ( Aadi  Sankara, about the antiquity of Kaveri )

 Origin of Kaveri : Legends     

 An Apsara was sent to Mohini ( the female avatar of the Hindu Goddess Vishnu) to help  her  in a battle  between the Devas and the Asuras.  After Mohini won the battle, the apsara was adopted by   sage Kavera, and hence she became Kaveri. ( Kavresaya apatyam stri Kaveri).  Kaveri prayed to Brahma, to transform her into a river so that she could run through her father’s lands and make them fertile.  When her request had just been granted, sage Agastya spotted her and asked for her hand.  Kaveri agreed to his proposal on a condition that he was never to leave her alone.   The sage accidentally left her alone for too long and she leapt out turned into a river as originally given as boon by Brahma.

 Manimekalai, the first epic in Tamil literature, written about 1,800 years ago, opens with a beautiful legend. When the Chola king Kanthaman wanted to improve the water sources of his country, he prayed to sage Agasthya and the sage Agasthya tilted his water pot and the Kaveri streamed out. As per another legend, Lord Ganapathi listening to the prayers of people to make the lands downstream fertile, took  the form of a crow and  tilted the Kamandalam where Sage Agasthya had kept Kaveri confined. Kaveri flowed out of it!  

From Kodagu in Karnataka to Puhar (Kaverippoompattinam) in Tamil Nadu, the Kaveri  flows along 765 km.  Shimsha,  Hemavati,   Arkavati, Honnuhole, Lakshmana Tirtha, Kabini, Bhavani.   Lokapavani,  Noyyal and   Amaravati River are it s major tributaries before enters the Chozhamandalam. With huge catchment areas comprising the hilly regions of the Western Ghats lashed by monsoon rains Kaveri roars through the delta region of Tamil Nadu bringing both immense prosperity and at times untold misery as well. She is referred as Ponni meaning a golden girl in Tamil!

 Staring with Karikalan Chozhan all the kings of Chozha dynasty wanted to ensure that maximum utilization of the waters of Kaveri by building dams, barrages, creating temple ponds and   enormous lakes. The water channeling and diversions were so effective that the water bodies got filled up from the western end to eastern end. They ensured that even if the monsoon failed, there was enough water for the people and cattle to survive. The bountiful crops during normal years were greatly managed to have enough buffer stock to feed the people during drought years.  

  The raising of the banks of the river Kaveri by Karikalan is mentioned by the Malepadu plates (seventh century CE)] of the Telugu Chola sovereign of Renadu Erigal-Mutturaju Punyakumara, who claims descent from Karikalan. Quote “ karuna – saroruha vihita – vilochana – pallava – trilochana pramukha kilapritvisvara karita kaveri tira (he who caused the banks of the Kaveri to be constructed by all the subordinate kings led by the Pallava Trilochana whose third eye was blinded by his lotus foot)“ Unquote.  .

 

The Grand Anicut, also known as the Kallanai was built by Karikalan and is considered as one of the oldest water-diversion or water-regulator structures in the world still in use. The Kallanai is a massive dam of undressed stone, 329 metres (1,080 ft) long and 20 metres (60 ft) wide, across the main stream of the Kaveri. A later Chola record from Tiruvaduturai refers to this event that is raising the banks of the Kaveri by Parakesari Karikala Chola.

The dam was re-modeled by the British during the 19th century. In 1804, Captain Caldwell, a military engineer, proposed a solution by raising the dam and hence raised the dam stones to a height of 69 centimeters (27 in), thus increasing the capacity of the dam. Following this, Major Sim proposed the idea of under sluices across the river with outlets leading to the Kollidam River (thus preventing formation of silt. The dam is in excellent condition even today , and supplied a model to later engineers, including Sir Arthur Cotton's 19th-century dam across the Kollidam. This proves beyond doubt the foresight Karikalan’s engineers more than a thousand years before! 

There is even an ancient barrage across Vennar near Mahadevapuram (about five miles from Kallanai) called old Kallanai. There are more than a dozen tributaries branching off from Kaveri in  the Chozhamandalam. Kollidaam in those days was called Vada Kaveri (North Kaveri) and was equally auspicious. Many temples were built on the banks of Vada Kaveri too and festivals like Thula Snanam were also conducted like in original Kaveri.  Tributeries of Kaveri enriching the delta region include, Vada Kaveri ( modern day Kollidam), Vennar, Vettar, Kudamurutti, Arasalar, Koriyar, Vanjiyar, Nattar, Nandalar, Agniyar, Manikarnigai,  Maniaar. While all these tributeries branch of to the south of kaveri only Maniyar flows north and is between kaveri and Kollidam!

 Near present day Puducherry was once a village   called Tirubhuvana Mahadevi Caturvedi Mangalam. During the reign of Parantaka Chola (AD 920), a great lake, named after his queen Tribuvana Mahadevi was created. Veeranam Lake was built by Rajaditya Chola. He named it after his father Parantaka I Chola, who had the title "Veeranarayanan". Veeranarayanapuram was a residential town  created by him.  It got modified into Veeranam over time. Veeranam Lake gets water from Kollidam via Vadavaru River. Originally the lake when built was one and half  Kaadha Dooram long and  half Kaadha Dooram wide ( 25 km X 8.5 km). But its length shrunk to 16 km.

In 1023CE, Rajendra Chola-I built a new city 'Gangaikonda Cholapuram'   to commemorate his victorious march to Ganges. For 250 years this city remained as the Capital of Chola empire which extended from Tungabhadra in the North to Sri Lanka in the South and was celebrated in the literature of 'Moovar Ula' of Ottakutthar  and 'Kalingattuparani' of Jayankondar. From his triumphant journey, he brought back holy waters of the sacred river to sanctify Chola land and poured the Ganges water into the newly commissioned Chola Gangam  lake (now called 'Ponneri' and in a neglected state) for drinking and irrigation purposes. This lake spreads over a periphery of 22 km and is considered one of the largest man-made lakes still in use in India.

 Madhurantaka Vadavaru, now called the Vadavaru, running about six kilometers east of the ruined capital is named after one of the titles of Rajendra I, was a source of irrigation to a vast stretch of land bordering the capital. An irrigation channel called Anaivettuvan is also mentioned. "Anaivettuvan" - Anai means irrigation (step irrigation) vettuvan means labour or engineer.

In all their endevour starting from building of Kallanai from the time of Karikalan till the end of their dynasty and even beyond, the contribution of Palamarneri Brahacharnam clan had been invaluable. For their service in the selection of location, design of embankments, design of water courses for irrigation and filling  up of lakes and ponds from Kaveri and its tributaries, they were regarded as great assets to the Chozha empire. It was during this time, proper land records were created and maintained for collection of revenue from the land owners and chieftains. It was left to this community for maintenance of land records, accounting and book keeping of revenue and its deposits into royal treasury. The accountants were made as hereditary holders of this job and it was passed on from generation to generation. Even when the Chozha kingdom fell and others like Nayakars, Marathas and British ruled over the region, the land revenue records continued to be maintained by these hereditary holders who knew every inch of land and its ownership. People may be wondering as to how they would recognise the land holding in the absence of maps! Each piece of land was recognized by a name! I have some of the old stamp papers dealing in sale of our ancestral lands which gives the survey number, the ownership in four cardinal directions, the extent and even the name of that piece of land. Giving name to the land ensured that the farmers who work in the fields could recognise them in the vast landscape without confusion!

During the reign of Chola Empire, the Brahmmarayars were granted extensive acreage of lands for their services. The copper plates unearthed at Anbil tells about grant of Ten Velis of land ( more than 60 acres of land) to Aniruddha Brahmmarayar. Likewise almost a thousand acres of land were held by Neman family in Mahadevapuram ( Kachchamangalam) just a hundred years ago.  Similarly when the irrigations were improved , many of the clan took up jobs for maintaining not only land records but also other royal duties over the entire length and breadth of the Chola empire. Though they were granted lands, they had to depend on others to do physical farming as Brahmins are expressly prohibited from farm labour.

While the clerical, spiritual and administrative, jobs were entrusted to Brahmmarayar clans may of whom were natives of Northern areas of the empire like Teluga, Kodagu, Malaya and even Kalinga Desam, the other jobs were entrusted   sa per Varnasrama.  They all had  their  clan names and titles  like Velalar, Varaiyar, Pazhuvettriyar, Muthhthariyar, Kalaththil Venrar,  Kilakku Udayar, Kaikkola Padayar, Mazhavaryar etc. Some of them are so high in social status and had the privilege to give their sons or daughters in marriage to the royalty. Some  of the minor Chieftains were permitted to fly their own flags too! All of them are give huge villages for agriculture production  as well as provide trained soldiers in times  of war. While the empire has its own standing Army of Chariot force , Elephant force , Cavalry and Foot soldiers, the bulk of the force would be gleamed from these Chieftains for any campaign or defence. Almost every Brahmmarayar who owned the gifted land would give away on lease to one of the farming families of the other clans and claim part of the produce for their sustenance. On their part, they were advisors for everyone for the start of various agricultural operations based on astrology, astronomy and experience. Everyone would consult them for start of ploughing, watering, sowing and reaping of not only paddy or sugarcane but also short term crops and vegetables!

Though the water management by the Chozha kings was superb, Kaveri used to change its course during heavy monsoon years as there were no dams upstream of Kallanai across Kaveri or any of its major tributaries like Bhavani or Amaravati. Sometimes the floods used to leave a vast track of water body almost like a mini lake. These areas will take a name of Eri. There is one Maraneri near the present day Kachchamangalam (Actually Chaturvedi Mangalam denoting that the  village was a grant from the kingdom to the practitioners  of the four Vedas namely the Brahmins)! Pazhamaraneri of which Mummudi Brahmmarayar belonged might have been ravaged by floods a long long time ago!       

Apart from Pazhamarneri Brahacharnams, there were many Vadama Brahachrnams in the service of the empire. The term Vadama may have originated from the Tamil term 'Vadakku' meaning North, indicating their Northern origin. This claim is supported by the fact that, unlike other sub sects of Iyers, some Vadama pay oblations in their daily Sandhyavandanam to the river Narmada. However, what is not certain is whether 'North' refers to northern Tamil Nadu or regions farther north. Some  scholars are of the opinion that rather than the superficial indication of a northern origin for the people, the term "Vadama" might  rather refer to their proficiency in Sanskrit and Vedic ritual, generally associated with the North. Like other Iyer communities, they follow the Advaita philosophy propounded by Adi Shankara. A significant proportion of the Vadama community adopted Vaishnavism, and are thus believed to have given rise to the Vadagalai Iyengar community. The oldest historical references to Vadamas date from the first millennium AD. Vadamas have a martial tradition unlike most other Iyer communities. They are believed to have been the protectors of Brahmin villages or agraharam and served as administrators and advisors to Tamil and Telugu kings during the medieval and early modern period.

It is to be appreciated that the administrative jobs were not exclusive to Brahmmarayar clans alone, but Vadmas also occupied good positions in the village and higher administrative echelons of the empire. Also in the empire there were migrants from as far as Kashmir, Kalingam and Vengi. The discendants  of Palamarneri Brahmmarayar clan also took up job all over the empire where they were greatly sought after for their proficiency in administrative jobs. Mummadi Brahmmarayar’s son  Maraiyan Arulmoli, also known as Uttamachola Brahmarayan, served as Senapathi in the Chola army of  King Rajendra Chozhan! .

Of the great flood of Irawatheswaram

Around later half of the Eighteenth Century Muthu Iyer, belonging to the clan of Brahmmarayar migrated from Kumbakonam to Anbil where he exchanged his lands of around a thousand acres and got them on the southern side of Kaveri. Thanjavur was becoming a prosperous town with English education and it was becoming increasingly difficult to oversee the agricultural operations from far way Kumbakonam. In Anbil, he built the Satyavakeeswara Vinayakar temple which was to become the Kuladeivatam of a sect of Nemam clan. He established his family at Irawatheswaram, the present day old Nemam. The agraharam was on the southern side of the Irawatheswarar temple extending from West to East. There was only street and all the houses were facing North.  Here the Kaveri takes a right turn around the temple briefly North West to South East as a mirror image of the crest moon on the Jadamudi of Easan. Unlike these days, there was no embankment for roadway and the road level was the same as the level of the bank of the river. Kaveri was flowing just about fifty yards from the temple and a hundred yards from the agraharam. Kollidam was still known as Vada Kaveri and it was  still sixty odd years away from Caldwell  raising the height of Kallanai and another hundred years before Arthur Cotton was to build a barrage at Mukkombu to regulate the flow to the newly named Kollidam!

Around 1800 or so Kaveri was in great fury and breached the banks behind the Irawatheswarar temple, changed its course through it and the agraharam demolishing almost the entire agraharam leaving only a few houses. Sensing danger, the people had let off their cattle the previous evening itself moved farther west into open areas.  Because many of them kept watch keeping awake, many lives were saved though their houses and possessions were washed away. The when the flood waters receded and the Kaveri water level went down, it was found the temple was also greatly damaged and the idol of Alankari  Amman  was also washed away in the flood waters. Greatly disappointed, the people collected and plugged the breech and cleared the debris of the fallen temple. The Irawatheswarar and Nandi were however intact. A frantic search around the area to locate the Amman did not yield any result. .  

Rattled by the fury of the floods   and having lost their dwellings, they inhabitants decided to move to a much safer places to rebuild their houses . The agraharam residents comprising both Vadamas and Brahacharnam decided to relocate themselves at the present day Nemam which is about three furlongs     west of the temple.  They also decided to construct their agraharam at least four furlongs from the river bank West to East. They also   constructed a Venugoplaswamy temple on the Western end facing East overlooking the agraharam as the agraharam otherwise would be bereft of any temple. A Pillayar kovil was constructed close to the bank of Kaveri as a protector from future floods ravishing their new dwellings.  Another batch of the residents of the Agraharam decided to move two furlongs further east and almost a mile from the  river bank  where the present day Mullakkudi village  is located. Later they shifted to present day Palamarneri after getting a grant of land from Raja Sarfoji. That is another story.  To my mind even Mullaikkudi may be a corruption of Munnorkudi! (Residents of our elders!)  

 That is why the present day Nemam village is far away from the Sivan Kovil. The Nemam village Ccremation ground as well as of Palamarneri village is further west to the Irawatheswarar temple on the right side of the road leading to Ilangadu. This reinforces the theory that the ancestors of both the inhabitants of present day Nemam and present day Palamarneri were residents of Irawatheswaram located south of the Sivan Kovil. The crematoriums are more than four furlongs away from both villages as they did not construct new ones close to their respective villages after their exodus.   

 Regarding the inhabitants of Irawatheswaram belonging to Velalars and others, a few stay put braving the uncertainty of future floods while many of them shifted to Ilangadu further south west and away from the river. It is to be noted that while the settlement in New Nemam had no quarters for Velalars, the settlement in Ilangadu has no Agraharam. The temples in these two villages and the Sundareswarar and Venugoplaswamy temples in Palamarneri are later day additions.

  In due course of time, the Irawatheswarar temple was reconstructed and a new idol of Alankari Amman    was consecrated. After a few decades, Alankarai Amman appeared in a dream of some person directing him to locate Her statue buried in the sands of Kaveri. It was traced and reinstalled in the Artha mantapam of the temple. So there are two idols of Alankarai Amman in the temple today!

Muthu Iyer’s descendants

He had three sons namely Narayanaswamy, Suryanarayanaswamy and Subba Iyer.  Subba Iyer had no issues. Narayanaswamy had two sons one named after his grandfather as Muthu and the other Vaidhyanathan. Suryanarayanaswamy had one son Rangu Iyer and three daughters. We will concentrate on the descendants of Vaidhyanathan and Rangu Iyer whom are first cousins.

 Vaidhyanathan had two sons and a daughter. The eldest was Narayana Iyer (2), named after his grandfather, the second Subbier and the third Kalyani. Kalyani was married to Sir PS Sivaswamy Iyer and they had no issues. Narayana Iyer had five sons and two daughters the eldest being N N Vaidhyanathan Iyer taking the name of his grandfather.

Rangu Iyer had three daughters and a son named Ramaswamy Iyer. Ramaswamy Iyer had five sons including a twin, the eldest being Ranganatha Iyer, taking the name of his grandfather. 

 Subbier had three sons and three daughters, the eldest being Kalyanasundaram and the youngest Natesan.  The detailed family Tree of Muthu Iyer is given elsewhere in the blog.

Vaidhyanathan built a huge mansion of almost 3000 sft of floor space in the newly established Agraharam in Nemam after the deluge on the Western side facing south. (It is still well, maintained and a Veda Patashala is being run by Kanchi Kamakoti Peetam presently. His great grandson NV Narayanaswamy is the custodian of that property. It is now referred as NVN mansion). At that time it was a joint family of his.

Rangu Iyer also built a huge mansion on the eastern side of the village of more or less the same dimensions. It was built on a high plinth of almost six feet from the street level to ensure no flood water could ever enter the house! Ramaswamy Iyer, being his only son acquired the property. 

When the property was partitioned among the two sons of Vaidhyanathan, the mansion was willed to the elder son Narayanan. A slightly diagonally opposite house facing North of about 2000 Sqft was given to Subbier.  

The descendants of Muthu also built houses for themselves in the new Agraharam to the right of Rangu Iyers’s mansion of huge size but less grandeur on the eastern side.  Side by side the construction of Venugoplaswamy Temple on the western end of the Agraharam and the Pillayar Kovil at the entrance to the village on the eastern side were consecrated. The clan used to visit the Irawatheswarar Kovil trekking almost five furlongs every day!

The entire clan had their agricultural fields in Mahadevapuram but the individual family  holdings had come down to one tenth  of  original undivided holding of the patriarch Muthu Iyer  due to partitions over the four generations, building constructions, conduct of lavish marriages  and other ceremonies, education of children in towns and cities.