8. The Great Escape through the jungles of Burma with the Japanese in pursuit

 

The great escape

Background

In the 18th century Burmese rulers maintained their traditional influence in the western areas of Assam, Manipur and Arakan for their trade. Pressing them, however, was the British East India Company with   its expansion policy eastwards over the same territory. Over the next sixty years, diplomacy, raids, treaties and compromises, known collectively as the Anglo-Burmese Wars, continued. With the fall of Mandalay, all of Burma came under British rule on 1 January 1886.

Burma's annexation ushered in a new period of economic growth. The economic nature of society also changed dramatically. The British began exploiting the rich soil of the land around the Irrawaddy delta and cleared away the dense mangrove forests. Rice, which was in high demand in Europe, especially after the building of the Suez Canal in 1869, was the main export. To increase the production of rice, many Burmese migrated from the northern heartland to the delta, shifting the population concentration and changing the basis of wealth and power, Throughout the colonial era, many Indians arrived as soldiers, civil servants, construction workers and traders and, along with the Anglo-Burmese community, dominated commercial and civil life in Burma. Rangoon became the capital of British Burma and an important port between Calcutta and Singapore.

Before the British conquest, the Indians in Lower Burma primarily engaged in trade. The small Indian community was located almost wholly in Rangoon. After 1852, they migrated to Lower Burma because of the jobs available in the expanding economy and the new provincial bureaucracy of the British Raj. Their population rapidly rose from 37,000 in 1871 in Lower Burma to 297,000 in 1901 with 86% being born outside Burma by that year. Most Indians were from Madras Presidency and Bengal Presidency.

 By 1931, there were more than one million Indians in Burma, about 7% of the population, and were mostly concentrated in Lower Burma. The census of 1931 enumerated 1,017,825 Indians in Burma with 617,251 born in India. Per the census of 1931, the total population of Rangoon was 400,415 out of which comprised 212,929 Indians. They comprised 2.5% of population in Upper Burma and 10.9% in Lower Burma. Numerous infrastructure projects started by the British colonial government and increases in rice cultivation in the delta region caused an unprecedented economic boom in Burma that drew many Indians, particularly from southern India, to the Irrawaddy Delta region.

Burmese Indians are from an array of ethnic backgrounds. There are Tamils from Tamil Nadu, Telugus from Andhra Pradesh and Marwaris from the Marwar region of India's Rajasthan state as well as Bengalis hailing from the Indian state of Assam and Bengal.  There were also Malayalis from Malabar, Odias from Odisha, Punjabis from the state of Punjab who were mostly Sikhs . There were two groups of Gujaratis, both Gujarati-speaking Parsis and Gujaratis proper. They were able to communicate in Burmese due to years of assimilation and lack of education in languages other than English. Other languages used by Burmese Indians include Tamil, Telugu and Malayalam.

 Tamils were mostly concentrated in Rangoon in South and Mandalay in the middle region. The British tea plantation labourers were also mostly immigrant labour from Tamil Nadu and Malabar. The seasonal labourers from erstwhile Assam (present day West Bengal, Assam and Bangladesh) would arrive in thousands during the harvest season of rice paddy by boats from Chittagong.

After the First World War, anti-Indian sentiments began to rise for a number of reasons. The number of ethnic Indians was growing rapidly (almost half of Rangoon’s population was Indian by the Second World War). Indians played a prominent role in the British administration and became the target of Burmese nationalists. Racial animosity toward Indians because of their skin-colour and appearance also played a role. Though they were not hostile outright, they were however happy to see the immigrant Indians leaving their soil in droves to India in a great exodus fearing Japanese onslaught.  But many who have been born and raised and those who have settled down and those who converted to Buddhism chose to remain in Burma as they had no roots left in India.

With this background, let us resume Natesan’s story:

While Natesan was well aware of the socio historic back ground of Burma at that time, he was still apprehensive of his physical safety during his long trip to the Indian border. The law and order had more or less broken down and there were no semblance of police control. He also knew that it would be safer if he was in a group rather than going alone in the country side.  People were milling around in whatever means of transport they could muster to reach as close to the border. But the bulk of them were on foot carrying their meager possessions as much as they could carry on person.  It was the most pitiable sight. While one could get some provisions in major towns, the locals made a killing by charging more than four to ten times their cost during normal times.

Natesan was anticipating this and cleverly exchanged two hundred rupee currency notes into smaller denomination with the help of the Restaurant owner after his breakfast.   The owner advised him that he should take precautions not to contract Cholera and be chary of stale food and contaminated water.  He assured him that he would have no problem of communication for finding his way. The roads were well marked in English signage and many locals knew Tamil.   Natesan bought two pounds of rice flakes (beaten rice)   and a jar of mango pickles from a Tamilian shop.  Like Penang the market in Mandalay had a number of shops selling bamboo hats. He bought a conical fishing hat with adjustable chin strap.  

 He was very concerned about his health on hearing about the thousands of refugees dying of Malaria and Cholera. There was no semblance of medical aid. Sanitation was abhorrently lacking.  The Military ruck sack had a tin of water purifying tablets and a bottle of DMP oil for protection from mosquitoes and insect bites.  He decided to ask for only hot water for drinking from then on. Considering the various possibilities of survival due to bombings, strafing, sickness or even ambush by an unseen enemy, he decided to keep a journal from that day onwards. In case he got killed due to whatsoever reason, he was hoping that someone could get hold of his journal among his possessions and inform his kith and kin. He posted a letter to Dharmamabal that he was leaving Burma and hopefully reach Calcutta in about a month. He was unsure either he or his letter would reach their respective destination. He posted another letter to the agent of Abdul Kader at Calcutta that he was on his way there by road through Tamu pass route.  He noted the route to Tamu in his Journal though he knew there are millions would be walking along like the migrating cattle in Africa.

Natesan’s Journal Noting :

04 March:  Journal entry at 6 PM at Myaung after almost 50 miles!

 In the morning the bicycle has been oiled and inflated. The rucksack is secured in the carrier. Good I got the short and singlet washed yesterday of grime and coal dust. Wearing them with the military boots and the Burma hat, I was ready to embark on my escape to India. Had a good briefing from the Restaurant owner.   Changed Rs.200  to small notes.  A big ‘Tthank you” to him.  Filled the water bottle. 

Started at 0730.  Already the roads were crowded with cars, trucks, carts and thousands walking along on both sides.  Traffic was sporadic.  Could see only Europeans in cars and buses.   Trucks carrying household articles .   May be of the Europeans.  Even a grand piano! Reading the road sign pointing to Monywa   80 Miles!  Road is gravel   Yet  good enough for cycling.  Sun was  already up and I wish I had bought a  pair of goggles.  Had to be careful to avoid a staggering man falling over the cycle.  One idiot almost hit my cycle with a bamboo pole he was carrying.

Reached a shady patch where many were taking a break. Locals were selling all sorts of items but only a few could afford them.   I took a tender coconut and drank the water and ate the pulp .  After cycling about ten miles reached Sagaing. The Irrawaddy   (Irawathi for us)   River is flowing on the left . The road was fairly flat.  A lot of monks in their robes were walking along to a Pagoda.

After cycling for another three hours reached Mynmu .  I must have done 50 miles till now.  Found a restaurant and a Tamil speaking  employee of Burma Oil Company and his family  there. Talked to them . They were here for more than five years and had travelled along this road quite a few times. The Company is organizing their evacuation in batches and were told to move as much North as they could by own cars. Their heavy baggages have been loaded on trucks. They are all heading to Tamu. They suggested that I must follow the   track   down to Myaung and further down to Pa Yein Ma and the  distance would be around 30 or 35 miles. I can easily cycle down.  They suggested that  I stay for the night and next day  move up along Chindwin River  to Chaung –U  .  From here I can either follow along the river or take the road to Thamboddaya Pagoda which is just about ten miles short of Monywa. They advised to me visit the 13^th Century pagoda which is on the way.. On the whole I will havr to  cover about 50 or 60  miles tomorrow. I scribbled the details in my journal.  They asked not to follow the foot route though it is a short cut by about fifty miles to Monywa .  It will be very difficult to push the cycle in the jungle track along the jostling crowd of the migrants.   There will be nothing available along this jungle track except malarial mosquitoes. I took my lunch here of rice ,  boiled vegetablesand curd. I also bought half a dozen bananas. 

Deciding to take a break for the night either at Myaung or Pa Yein Ma   I left after lunch around 3PM. . Reached Myaung around five to pedaling along the gravel road without an incident. I saw a Buddhist monastery and a mantapam outside. There was a small stream running around. I refreshed myself and collecting a few dried twigs, I lit a small fire under a tree and boiled a handful of rice flakes.  I should have taken a plate of rice in the restaurant and keep the rice flakes as reserve.  Cooked rice flakes with pickles were ok. I ate two more bananas and kept for breakfast tomorrow.  Laying the cycle down, I kept the ruck sack in the middle of the cycle frame and secured it with the bedding rope. Keeping the matchet handy , I   am going to sleep now ! Decided not to over strain and take it easy.

05 March   Thursday  ( 8  PM  Burmese Lodging  House in Monywa )

 Got up just before day break to the wakeup call of birds.  Reached the stream leading the bi-cycle on foot.  Washed the clothes.  Reurned to the mantapam and had a change of clothes.  Securing the ruck sack  and tied  the wet clothes on it . Ate the bananas .  started off,  thanking Buddha and the monastery for keeping me safe for the night.  It was already 6.   

Pedaling keeping the Chindwin on the left.  Reached a small village Chauang-U  by 8.   Teashop . Had a cup of thick Burmese tea and a snack looking like Samosa stuffed with boiled vegetables . Asked to dip the snack in the tea and eat it.   Most of the motorists must be taking a break here. Lit a cigarette . The local ones are pretty long compared to the military supplies from US or England in tins!   

 Reached  Thanboddhay Pagoda after about an hour. Very  vast and very colourful. Very ancient belonging to 11 the Century like our Periya Kovil.   Hardly a few vistors. Mostly monks.   Went around the vast copmplex. They said there are more than 500000carvings of Buddha images here!  Surrounded by thick forests, a retreat for monks during monsoon! . I wanted to visit the famous Golden pagoda while in Rangoon.  More tna made up.

Thanks to  Burma Oil friend, I would have skipped but for his guidance. From the road to Monywa,  no body could make out this pagoda in the thick forest through a  track on the right.   Reached  Monywa by mid day.  A fairly big village.   Saw a Gurudwara.  People giving free food to the migrants. There were at least half a dozen such Gurudwaras  . A large population of Sikhs from Punjab and  also of the military .  many of them are also leaving for  Tamu.  Had lunch .  Very hot. Decided to break for the day.

I found a room in a decentplace for the night. Many Bengalis and people from Orissa,  all trying to escape to India. The room rents are costlier than normal times. The British and others have their own guest houses.   Slept for about two hours.  Dusted and oiled the cycle. Filled the oiler. Inflated the tires. 

Planned for the next move. The road ends in Kalewa which is about 124 miles. Two days or three days?    

 

06 March  Friday  (  Evening On the sandy banks of Chindwin River in Kani)                                            )

Advised to cross the Chindwin bridge and go to otherside of the river and cycle towards Kani and from there to Tongyi. The Climb will be steep at places.  Many pagodas will be seen on the way.

Had a fairly heavy breakfast.  Bought half a dozen bananas.  Started at 7 am .  Fairly warm already. The road is full of ups and down.  Reached a small rivulet going down to join the Chindwin River . A cause way. Must be flowing full during monoon.  Took a break after two hours of cycling.  Had a break of half an hour. Had a smoke.   No Pagodas nearby! Traffic is picking up. The walking migrants are going through shortcuts along the jungle track crossing the road at one or two places. I remained on the motor track.  

From here the Kani was another 30 Miles.  A fair climb but not too strenuous. Reached Kani by 2 PM. Must have done about sixty  miles today. There are huge Pagodas. A medium sized village.    Reminding me of Tirukkattuppalli. Chindwin River is fairly wide. I am on the West bank.  Have to remain on this side throughout. Many streams are criss-crossing the place.  Told that the place gets flooded during monsoon. Thank God! Monsoon is still two months away!

Looking out for any road side shop for tea and refreshment. Found a a few cars parked along. A few people having Burmese tea and snacks.  The next inhabited place on the track is Kalewa which is another 75 miles. After this there are no motorable track . Also bombing threat from Japanese !  The climb is also fairly steep I am told.  They are planning to reach Kalewa by evening.  I decided to take rest for the evening. Had tea and snacks and a smoke.  Will I be able to make it by tomorrow evening?

Had a  good swim in the river. Washed my clothes.  The population is meager but a lot of migrants, many camping on the sandy river bed. Some along the streams.  Visited a Pagoda . They don’t allow migrants to stay.  Opened a tin of beans and heated up. Also cooked two handful of rice flakes.  Dinner with pickles and Banana.  Slept under the open sky.

07 March  Saturday    ( 6 PM On the sandy beach of   Myththa or Mitta  River may be Mythili named after Goddess  Sita)                          

Got up to the sounds of birds calling.  Still fairly dark.  Got ready by day break.  Had tea and bananas . Left Kani by 0630. The first five miles were very steep. At a few places, I got down and walked leading the bike up the slope.  But the next five six miles were steep down slope and I made up for the last time. The road is bumpy. Traffic started .  The walking migrants crossing every now and then. Forest on both sides.   Took a break by 10 by a road side Teashop catering to motorists.  Few of them had opened the bonnets to cool the engine. May be they are coming from Monywa or even beyond.

 Already quiet warm.  Filled up my water bottle. There were  plenty of Sitapazham , Bananas and Pappali  Boiled beans .  A half plate of cooked  rice and curd.  A fried item resembling our bajji! Unsure of the topography ahead, I decided what I could cover after another two hours of ride! Kalewa was about another forty miles.

I reached Kalewa by about 4 PM after crossing a River in a country coracle (like boat)  loading my bicycle. This river joins the Chindwin on the East side of Kalewa. I saw miles and miles of migrants camping on the sandy banks of the river and the boatmen making a good business transporting the migrants across the river.  The British have made a military bridge for their vehicles and also the vehicles carrying Europeans from down South. Others cannot use this bridge.    

It is utter chaos as I entered the town. The whole place is full of people milling around. The cars, trucks and buses after dropping the Europeans and their luggage are returning to Mandalay to ferry the next batch! There are coolies to take luggage to the border.  Plenty of elephants with their keepers to carry Europeans and their luggage to Tamu.

The British had established a migrants’ camp for their people where they can bathe eat and stay for the night. They also organise the coolies for carrying luggage of the european  migrants in batches.   The coolies are of all denominations, locals, Indians from Bengal, Orissa and Madras.   I caught hold of a Tamil from Nagapattinam.  He is a farm labour and works as a porter at other times. He has moved from Rangoon along with migrants and here getting a good income.  He plans to stay for some more time and move to Tamu before monsoon. He is with the European migrants’ camp.  He told me that some of the Europeans book elephants for going all the way up to Tamu. The elephants cover the distance in two days and while returning bring provisions for the shopkeepers from India. But these elephants are reserved only for Europeans and Anglo Indians.  They have to form suitable groups and book the elephant for their ride through the camp.

He showed me a Hotel for south Indian food and suggested that I stay in the sandy banks. I had a proper homely meal like in Monywa and a cup of Coffee.  With the two ground sheets and two small branches of a tree, I made a small tent like covering. Enough to lay my bike and me too!  Keeping the machete handy and securing the ruck sack to the bicycle with the rope I will sleep off now!

08 March Sunday   (  6 PM on the periphery of the dusty  Kale Air Strip)

Got up early.  Already a lot of migrants and their children are bathing in the river. I also got ready.  Had a heavy breakfast in the same hotel.  Learnt that there are two routes. One along the left bank through the reserve forest . May have to cross river in boats at places. Told there are elephants may be available to cross streams at some  places.  The other route is to go to Kale and go further north on the other side of reserve forest to Tamu . This is longer.  But both ways one can make a maximum of three miles in an hour.  There is a British   air strip at Kale to transport troops and foreigners by air.  Sporadic without any set schedules. I decided that I would try to reach Kale. Take a chance if they can accommodate me in a flight to Calcutta or wherever! It is about 23 miles. Walking and cycling may take about 6 hours!

About 3 miles from Kalewa walking and pedaling reached the bank of a minor river. There was a party of Europeans   on elephant backs.  I had to cross the first minor river a tributary joining Chindwin. I took the coracle ride with my bike. River is not deep. On the other side I covered another five miles.  I came to another river confluence. I went along the track up North keeping the river to my left . I could pedal for a few miles as the elephants have made the track fairly hard.    Covered about another three miles. Here I crossed the river to the other side by boat. It is already 11 There were many migrants who are on foot. They must have started early morning from Kalewa. Many are cooking their food on the river bank. The boatman told me that Kale air strip is another ten to twelve miles. He had seen a plane   yesterday.   By now another party of European on three elephants reached there.

I will not get a seat , seeing all these people going there for taking a flight. After about five miles, I came to the end of forest area. The forest ahead has been cleared for the air strip. Air strip is about another five miles.   The track is clear.    Reached the air strip by 4 (PM) after a short break on the way

The British have established a camp for the Europeans in tents with proper facilities.  I did not find any Indians there.  Not even any staff of Burma oil Company.. No one was sure as to whether any flight would be there next day. They have paid for their elephant trip to Tamu already. They are also taking a chance.   

I cut a few tree branches to make a hammock out of the ground sheet and ropes.   Cooked the rice flakes with a tin of beans and had my dinner. Applying the insect repellant oil, I am going to sleep now.

09 March  Monday  ( near a stream on way to Khampat)

Woke up before day break.  Went to the camp site.   They were giving some food and tea to the elephant drivers.  Requested  if I could get anything on payment. They had only bread and tea. They gave me a loaf and a mug of Tea . Did not ask for any payment .  Due to  good English perhaps!      No intimation for arrival of any aircraft. The British have established transit camps like this  at all intermediate places like Khampat, Tamu and Imphal right up to Calcutta I am told in the Kale air strip!   

Pedalled back to the river.  Had my bath.    Ate half of the loaf with pickles. Fairly filling. By now the walking migrant parties were heading North.   A few Elephant parties also.  Khamphat is another fifty miles, I was told.  The elephant party will reach.

There were ups and downs with a few steep climb.  Covered another twenty miles by walking and pedaling where I could.  The track was steep in the first few miles. No rivers to cross.  Still it was climb all the way. I took a break after almost three hours. Didn’t know how much I covered.        There were a few migrants camping on the side of a small stream by mid day.  Decided to take a break. Heated the loaf on burning twigs and ate it with pickles.  Had a nap for an hour.

The jungle track has been fairly cleared by the migrants who had traversed earlier and also the elephants which  had taken the Europeans earlier.  Continued for an hour.  Fairly steep climb. May have covered twenty odd miles!

Again a fairly good stream.  A lot of migrants camping making lot of noise. Went a little ahead . Found a good spot under a tree for the night. Ate Sitapazham.

10 March  Tuesday  ( Some where near the track leading to Khampat)

 Woke up before day break. Had a bath upstream.  Only about half of rice flakes are left. Should have brought more. Hope I get it at Khampat .  Cooked and ate . No fruit trees. Started by  half past six. Some migrants are already on way. Track is bumpy . Climb is steady . Hard but not grueling.   By walk can’t  cover even three miles an hour . Small streams joining Chindwin River in East.  Not much water. May be impossible to cross during monsoon. At least now could lead the cycle  and walk. Must have covered about ten miles. Took a break . No tea or Coffee. Hoping for some villages on the way. Smoked a cigarette.  Already warm. Started off . Pedalled/ walked for about   two hours or so. Must have covered about ten more miles.   Almost mid day. An elephant party over took me. Possibly no flight. Did not notice or heard any flight overhead.  Much ahead of the walking migrants. After a  few miles or so, saw the elephant party taking a break in a clearing ahead. They must have come nonstop. There was a makeshift market for the migrants!   The elephant party finished their lunch there and about to leave when I reached there.   They were probably the first customers.

 Learnt that the shop keepers  are Mizos settled in villages around Khampat.. I took a plate of cooked rice and boiled vegetables and a cup of Tea. Many dishes of fish, pork and beef were there. They also sell rice, vegetables  and spices.   Rice flakes? No. I may get it in Khampat. Learnt that Khampat is another twenty miles or so. Not sure whether I will be able to reach Khmpat  before evening. Bought a pound of rice and a packet of condiments and a few pieces of vegetables and rock salt .  A Sticky local rice bread Chhangban  (noted in the journal)  is popular dish.  Resembling Thosai of Madras! I started off after a good meal. Pedalling  steadily. By evening four I had covered another ten miles.  There are small huts as I reach closer to Khampat.  I decided to break for night slightly away from the track .  Took two pieces of Chhangban with pickes for the night.  There is a hut about a hundred yards in side. Maty be I will get some water for a bath in the morning!  Slept taking usual precautions.

(A note on Khampat for general readers:  In the 1940s, a large number of Mizos did resettle around Khampat, which is today a Mizo dominated area in Myanmar. Khampat Bungpui is  a banyan tree located in the Khampat village. The tree is revered by the Mizos as their family tree. As per Mizo legends, their forefathers, while migrating from China in the 17th century to the Kabo Valley in Myanmar, planted the tree at Khampat around which they settled. However, the dominant Shan tribe drove them away from the region, leading the Mizos to move further west and arrive at what is Mizoram, India  today.)

10 March   Tues day (on way from Khampat to Tamu)

Woke up early.   Got water from the farmer’s family. Gave him two   American cigerettes.  Cooked the  rice and boiled the vegetables with spices. Had a breakfast of rice with boiled vegertables. Started off to Khampat by half past seven. Track was fairly flat but bumpy  I was in Khampat by 9 . This is a very small village.   Teeming with migrants. There were returning elephant parties from Tamu. Visited the venerated site of the banyan tree of the Mizo tribe. Looked for rice flakes.  Had a cup of tea. Learnt Tamu is another about forty miles. No clue whether in India or Burma. . Many elephant parties are already on their way. The walking migrants are also on the move. I will have company! But my speed will be curtailed! 

Started from there on the track. Slow pedaling while dodging the migrants and speed up when the track is empty.   Pedalled for about ten miles. Reached a clearing and a stream. Already mid day. Took a break for cooking for lunch and dinner.      Migrants were also taking a break. After lunch had a nap for an hour. Started off at four and pedaled for about an hour. Must have covered about ten miles.  Decided to spend the night and reach Tamu tomorrow.  It may have some Teashop  and local market   A mile or so  ahead located a hut on the right side   about fifty yards from the track. Going slightly off the track set up my night stay! Ate the balance of rice and vegetables.

11  March  Wednesday  ( Tamu near the British camp for Europen migrants)

Woke up early.  Had a wash in the stream.  Tamu may be another fifteen miles. I am not sure. The migrants were already starting off. May be I can find some wayside Tea shop.  I started off at half past six . Track was bumpy but mostly flat. Could see elephant droppings of yesterday party.  An hour later, a way side shop just opened.  Must be doing good business catering to migrants.   The owner is a Tamilian. Learnt Tamu has a considerable number of Tamils and other Indians apart from Mizos.  Why he does not make Tamilian food? People are used to Burmese food. Tamil spices and cooks are hard to get. He asked me to try my luck in Tamu.    Japanese capturing enslaving civilians for forced labour, what I learnt was greatly disturbing.   Malayan and Burmese Tamils were forced   to make  a   railway track between Thailand and Burma. More than one lakh Tamils had died due to exhaustion, snake and scorpion biltes, diseases and Japanese torture. Asked him why he is not leaving. He said he would. The rumour is Japan is more interested in conquering whole of China and it is choking all supplies through Burma to stave them .   Many will escape through various routes or hide in deep jungles.  The Japanese are  still in Rangoon and if the monsoon starts, it will be difficult for them also. So far so good!

 A bowl of boiled vegetables and rice and Coffee.  Tamu will be about 12 miles or so. They measure distance in time. It will take another 3 to four  hours to make to Tamu on foot.  I started off. Tamu must be a big transit point for the migrants and traders from India. Imphal is defended by British Indian Army. Will Japan attack India? No idea
The British had made a tent camp for foreigners, a couple of miles short of  Tamu. Reached there  around  1 O’clock.   The camp has bunks for sleeping , dining  tent . But it was exclusively for the Europeans and Anglo Indians.  Told that some Tea estate people and Hindu organizations have established free kitchens and payment kitchen at Tamu village ahead.

A nice pool ahead of this camp. Had a nice bath, washed my clothes . Ate the packed lunch and slept for an hour under a tree near the pool. Wanted to go ahead to the village .  Crossing the camp, a familiar face ! Joseph! Great to meet him.  He is staying here since yesterday. Along with a party of Europeans .Came by elephant after waiting for two days at Kalewa. Must have crossed me!

His party is waiting for the coolies arranged by the Camp authorities. They have to go by foot only further, may be cross some streams on the way to Imphal. He advised me to get inoculated for Cholera which is provided to all migrants. Got a shot of it. Must be careful because the route will be full of migrants on foot and water will be polluted.

Upto Imphal they will be on foot with coolies carrying their luggage. Cover six or seven miles because of the ladies and steep climbs. But they the British and Assam tea planters have established a few camps en-route. They will hop from one camp to the next on foot. No need to worry for their food and stay!  I thanked him for the information and decided to stay put for the night near the pool.   Managed to get a loaf of bread, a few cup cakes and a mug of Tea.

12 March   Thursday   (In own motherland  outside  Loicha  British Camp )

Woke up early. Reached Tamu village about one mile ahead by 6 Am. Already busy with migrants, elephants, coolies and way side shops. Leading the cycle! Another surprise.  Standing near an elephant and having tea was Rahim! He was happy to see me. He has come to deliver provisions to the free food camp established by Tea planters. Their plantation is further up North. iI was good that I am coming from south. He narrated how he helped more than a few hundred migrants coming from the North to cross a fast flowing stream to the other side.  This is the condition due to pre-monsoon showers. Asked him when he will return.  Definitely before monsoon, he said. That could be a month or forty-five days away!   One can never be sure of its onset with any accuracy!  Wishing to see him in India, I started ahead after a cup of tea with cupcakes.  

The Cholera shot is giving a little pain. After about two hours, reached a place where there was another camp by the British.  Continued after a short break. It was a steady climb of about five miles and down for another three miles or so. A village and a British camp was prominent. Learnt that the place is called  Loichaw or Lokchow or whatever. Decided to break for the day.  Must have covered about twelve miles.

Met the camp in charge. A camp further ahead for Indians had been burnt down due to Cholera epidemic.  Told him that I took a shot and showed him the swelling!    Requested for permission  to stay  outside their camp. Agreed. He gave me a loaf of bread and a tin of Jam!  They must be getting their supplies from Calcutta!

  The camp in charge told me that Tenganupal to Imphal is motorable and is about fifty miles.  Not sure whether they would permit me to ride in the bus or car or lorry!.  40 miles I can cover in two days if the the road is ok and the climb is like this.

I found a clean clearing outside the camp and set up my little tent of ground sheet. It will be cold at night due to altitude.   Had a nap for an hour. Lit fire and heated the bread. Had it with Jam! Not pickles for a change! Slept early. Must reach Tenganupal or whatever tomorrow by midday. I am told that there are camps for Indians run by the Hindu Maha Sabha and others.  

13 March  Friday.  ( Tenganupal)

Woke up early. Quite cold.   Thomas and party may be far  behind.  No one has reached the British camp.  They were waiting for them from yesterday. Though empty, they would not allow others to stay! Thanked the camp in charge for permitting me near the camp site. He offered a cup of Coffee. Filled up my water bottle with boiled water from their kitchen. No drinking of stream water.  Glad I had it. Started by half past six must have cycled about five miles. Climb is fairly steep. Had to lead the cycle at places. The migrants on foot were alredy on the track. Many found it hard to climb.  Saw the burnt out Indian camp on the way.  There was a clearing ahead.

Made a fire to heat the loaf and had it with jam. Had a smoke.  Already 9 o’clock. The track is steeper. Slogged and reached Tenganupal by mid day. The climb was even steeper than yesterday. There was an Assam Tea Planters camp reserved for the Europeans. The previous party had left in the morning for Imphal by trucks. They are awaiting the fresh party. But the camp is very neat and well maintained.

With my soldier turnout with khaki shorts and rucksack and bicycle must have impressed the camp in charge. He was from England, a civilian and working for a Tea estate. But his other staff as usual is all Indians.

I told him that I have taken inoculation against Cholera and I had seen the burnt out Indian camp on the way .  I was sure any camp for Indian migrants will not be as clean and hygienic as this.  Permitted to stay outside the boundary of the camp. I have enough rice to see me through.  They get enough bread for the Europeans but many times, if the groups get stuck behind , the items go stale.   Again I was lucky to get two loaves of bread. May be the Indian camp gives rice, vegetables and rotis! 

Outer edge of the Camp on the way up, I found a shady tree about fifty yards from the track . It will be less cold under a tree for the night. Lit a fire and cooked the rice and heated half a loaf. Had lunch.  Slept for an hour.  Learnt that it will be another ten miles where the motorable road starts for Imphal. Decided to leave only tomorrow. The uphill cycling and walking was a big strain.  Had half a loaf for dinner and slept.

14 March    Saturday ( On way to Imphal )

Woke up early in the morning. Had my wash . No bath. Had half a loaf bread with jam. Started off at half past six. The ride is down hill . Track is bumpy.  Crossed the camp meant for Indian migrants. They are also already up and walking down hill. Must have covered about ten odd miles. Reached a Assam Planters’ camp. Pallel or Palel or whatever. Not much discrimination in this camp, I suppose.  From here there is motorable road to Imphal about 35 miles away. Told the trucks or buses are to be booked in advance at Imphal and it is coordinated by the Europeans and their agents. No hope for me !

 Managed to get a plate of rice, a vegetable curry and two rotis. Perhaps from the kitchen meant for the workers of the camp! Yes it was! It was substantial and I could skip the lunch.  Started off around 11 and easy ride but bumpy. Flat more or less.  Decide to pedal as much as my legs could endure. Reached a place after about ten miles.  Had a break of fifteen minutes.  Did  another ten miles or so. A small village and a few road side shops.  Had a plate of spicy Kondakadalai . Looking for some curd! They eat it with curd in clay pot.   Very filling.  These are temperory shops catering to the surging population of migrants.  The bus /truck passengers may also have a break here. A lot of mild eatables like bread , cakes to cater to Europeans! The British soldiers also keep moving around in their military trucks.  Went a mile ahead. Decided to camop for the night.  Imphal is another 20 miles or so .  Decided to follow only the motor track. The migrants on foot are taking a lot a side tracks.  Motor traffic is  negligible.  Can cycle fast. Avoid the migrants on foot. Reached a small stream over a causeway.  Decided to go a few yards ahead and camp for the night.  

 

!5 March Sunday (Mao)

 Woke up early. Water is quite cold.  Washed .   Lit a fire to heat up the loaf. Had a loaf. Should have taken a pot of curd! Any way may be some way side shop or reach Imphal. Rough idea that it is about ten or fifteen miles. Started at half past six. Must have done about an hour . No shop seen. May be it was early.  Took a break for ten minutes. Started again. After another hour or so saw hordes of migrants heading to Imphal. May be they had their night in the jungles. Already on the outskirts of Imphal. Slowed down .

Saw a camp for Europeans. Got some information from the in charge.

From here one has to go to Dimapur by bus. The Europeans travel by modified trucks with proper seating.  Others are also transported by lorries. Perhaps they want to push  as many out of Imphal as early as possible. The distance to Dimapur is about 140 miles. One could hop to a place called Mao which is half way.  The total journey will be about 8 to ten hours I am told.  I may not be permitted to travel along with Europeans. Directed to the bus/ lorry stand.  Imphal is fairly a bigger village. I saw a group of Indians probably staff of Burma oil Company or others. They were haggling for a modified lorry to take them to  Dimapur   tomorrow or to Mao today itself and continue to Dimapur tomorrow.  Joined them and offered to share the cost of trip.  The private lorry owners are making a killing.

We hired the lorry for a hundred rupees a tidy sum.   We had lunch in  road side shop .  I packed a plate of rice and roti and vegetables. Taking also a plate of Kondakadalai for the way, we left at 2 PM. The lorry had only hard benches to seat and a long bamboo to hold and keep you steady!  I loaded my Raleigh , an extra five rupees for that!  No way I could eat the Kondakkadalai during the ride.  But the country is beautiful. We had no time to stand stare.

Reached Mao by 6 PM. All of us camped near a Church. This place has a number of Christians.  All of us were accommodated there by the kind hearted Padre!  To be ready to leave by 7 in the morning. Dimapur may be another 70 miles.  The train to Calcutta leaves at night.

 Had rice and  vegetables. Kept the Kondakadalai for breakfast! All of us slept on the floor.

 16 March  Monday (  Dimapur Station )

Got up early by  5 O’Clock. There were clean toilet and washing place. To our surprise the padre has arranged for a cup of tea and biscuits. Many of the co passengers also had biscuits or cakes. Dropped five rupees as a donation to the Church. Left Mao by half past seven. A short break after about two hours of bumpy ride by a way side shop. Told we are now in Assam having left Manipur.  Both in Mao and further the features of people look different.   They are the Naga tribes wearing very colourful dress. Similar to what I have seen in Burma lso.

 We reached Dimapur  railway station by about  twelve in the afternoon.   Purchased my second class ticket to Calcutta and a luggage ticket for my Raleigh!  

For the first time I left Rangoon, I saw a well laid out Restaurant at Dimapur station! The cost included ferry charges to cross Brahmaputra and a overnight journey by train again to Calcutta. It is going to be two nights and a day in the ferry!  So I will be hopefully in Calcutta by eighteenth. 

Had a good dinner in the Railway restaurant. The train left at 7 PM.  

 

 17 March Tuesday

 Train took us to Pandu on the mighty Brahmaputra, a river which bears a rare male name and means ‘son of Brahma’ in Sanskrit.  We alighted from the train and went to the ferry site.  While I am not new to sea travel, this is the first time I am a seeing a huge river as mighty as any ocean. The Brahmaputra, looked like an immense sea, with the orb of the sun sinking down into it.

 We crossed the river in a magnificent ferry. It was built to suit the lifestyle of the British tea planters of Assam. It was well equipped with a bar and a well appointed dining hall    The ferry had a contingent of disembarking of Indian troops, who were moving to the front. The officers, with their swords, turbans, s and guns, looked impressive. However the thought  that they may be facing the attack  of the Japanese forces is  disturbing. .  It wass fascinating to see  the ‘manatees’ that leapt out of the water and plopped back into it. These water animals resembled fat pigs, only bigger. We reached  Amingaon, a tidy riverside town on the other side of the river.

18 March  Wednesday

  The train to Calcutta was already positioned and I loaded my Raleigh in the luggage van and took my seat in the Second Class compartment.  This is broad guage track and the train raced to Calcutta We arrived in Calcutta around midnight. The Great Burma Trek is  over.   Happy to be alive. Happy to have dodged malaria and dysentery .   Happy to be back home!